TL;DR must-dos

  • Water lightly & often at first. Keep the top ½" of soil evenly moist, not soggy; taper to fewer, deeper waterings by week 3–4.
  • Easy on traffic. Stay off seeded areas until first mow; keep pets off as much as possible.
  • Delay weed control. Most herbicides should wait until new grass has been mowed 2–3 times.
  • First mow high. Mow when seedlings are ~3.5–4" and the soil is firm; sharp blade; remove ≤⅓ of height.
  • Be patient. Full density takes weeks; thin spots often fill in with consistent care.

Day-by-day schedule (most lawns)

Days 0–7

  • Water 2–5× daily (short cycles) to keep the seedbed consistently moist.
  • Avoid puddling; adjust for shade/sun and wind.
  • High temps, water more frequently.
  • No foot traffic.

Days 8–14

  • Continue light/frequent watering; begin to lengthen each cycle slightly
  • Reduce frequency to 2x-3x if 4-5x daily.
  • Watch for germination—rye first (7 days), then fescue (14 days), then bluegrass (21 days).

Weeks 3–4

  • Transition to once daily or every other day, but water deeper.
  • Schedule your first mow when seedlings reach ~3.5–4" and the ground is firm.

Weeks 5–8

  • 1x per week at 45-60 minutes based on area covered
  • Aim for ~1 inch of total water/week (rain + irrigation).
  • Resume normal mowing height (2.5-3 inches); avoid scalping.
  • Ask us about a light nutrient application if it wasn’t included at seeding.

Overseeding (with Core Aeration)

Core Aeration followed by seed broadcast. Plugs open the soil; seed finds the holes and canopy.

Do this

  • Keep the surface moist with light/frequent watering for 2–3 weeks, then taper.
  • Expect some seed on the surface—normal with broadcast methods.
  • Leave plugs in place; they break down and feed the soil.

Avoid

  • Aggressive raking or leaf-blowing in the first 3–4 weeks.
  • Herbicides until after 2–3 mows on new turf.

Great pairings

  • Topdressing to retain moisture and even out micro-low spots.
  • Dethatching before aeration if thatch was >½".

Slice / Slit Seeding

Also called “power seeding,” this plants seed into shallow furrows for excellent seed-to-soil contact.

Do this

  • Water like overseeding (light/frequent → taper). The furrows help hold moisture—avoid puddling.
  • Expect visible groove lines; they soften as turf fills in.
  • First mow when seedlings are ~3.5–4" and soil is firm.

Avoid

  • Raking across the seed rows early on; you can dislodge seedlings.
  • Heavy traffic, furniture, or sprinklers that sink into soft soil.

Topdressing

A light layer of compost/topsoil helps hold moisture, improves seed contact, and smooths small inconsistencies.

Do this

  • Water immediately after topdressing to settle material.
  • Watch for puddling or wash out.

Avoid

  • Avoid traffic until the area firms up and new grass requires first mow.
  • Avoid pets on the area until the area firms up and grass fills in

Dethatching (Power Raking)

Thatch removal exposes soil for better contact and air exchange.

Do this

  • Expect the lawn to look rough for a week or two—this is normal.
  • If we seeded after dethatching, follow the Overseeding or Slice Seeding instructions.

Avoid

  • Heavy traffic while crowns recover.
  • Collecting every last remnant—tiny leftovers break down.

Aeration only (no seed)

If we performed core aeration without seed, recovery is quicker.

Do this

  • Normal watering (not the seed schedule).
  • Resume mowing on your next regular cycle.
  • Leave plugs to break down.

Weed control

You can generally resume your usual weed program sooner since no new seed is present. When in doubt, ask us.

Watering templates

Use these as starting points—microclimates vary (sun, shade, wind, slope, soil).

If you have an irrigation system

  • Week 1–2: 3–4 short cycles/day per seeded zone (e.g., 5–8 minutes each), spaced out.
  • Week 3–4: 1×/day or every other day (12–30 minutes), depending on soil and output.
  • Week 5–8: 2–3×/week, deep (aim for ~1" total per week including rain).
  • Week 8 +: 1x/week, deep (aim for ~1" total per week including rain).

If you hand-water or use sprinklers

  • Week 1–2: 3-4 15 minute passes/day; keep the top ½" moist.
  • Week 3–4: Shift to one longer pass/day.
  • Week 5–8: Deeply 1-2×/week.

How to tell it’s right

  • Soil feels damp like a wrung-out sponge, not soupy.
  • Seedlings stand upright; tips aren’t wilting between cycles.
  • No algae or persistent puddles.

Mowing rules

  • First mow: when seedlings reach ~3.5–4" and the ground is firm.
  • Blade: sharp; sanitize if you treated diseased areas.
  • Height: remove ≤⅓ of the blade at a time. Target 3–3.5"+ during establishment.
  • Clippings: mulch if possible; bag only if clumping.

Weed control timing

  • Pre-emergents: Avoid until new grass is well established (often the following season). These can block germination.
  • Post-emergent broadleaf: Wait until seedlings have been mowed 2–3 times. Spot-treat first.
  • Non-selective products: Keep clear of any new grass.
  • Fertilizer: If a starter wasn’t applied, ask about a light feeding at 4–6 weeks.

Traffic, pets & leaves

  • Foot traffic: Minimize until first mow; then light, even use.
  • Pets: Keep off seeded areas; rinse spots quickly to avoid burn.
  • Furniture/equipment: Keep off soft soil—legs can create dead spots.
  • Leaves (fall): Use a blower on low and frequent cleanups; avoid aggressive raking for the first 3–4 weeks.

Troubleshooting & when to call us

Drying out between cycles?

Add one more light watering or shorten intervals. Check sprinkler coverage.

Mushy or algae forming?

You’re watering too much or too long. Cut runtime and increase spacing.

Washing on slopes?

Split runtime into more, shorter cycles. Consider a light topdressing or erosion mat on steeper sections.

Thin patches after 4–6 weeks?

Very normal. Many fill in with continued care. If large, we can spot seed.

Weeds popping up?

Expected—soil disturbance wakes weed seeds. Hand-pull early; delay sprays until the turf is ready.

How We Protect
Your Community Every Year!

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